MY SUMMER CAR GUIDE 2: ELECTRIC BOOGALOO
One thing you'll notice about My Summer Car, you're going to need to drink a few berooskis otherwise there's a chance there may be a keyboard going through the wall. Basics You might want to run to the store in the van to stock up on food and drinks before you start building the car. You might also want some way of cooling yourself down, because you will get very, very hot and frustrated from building and playing a lot. Before you leave, load up your van with canisters. These can be found in the barn where the tractor is at. A spare diesel can is in the back left corner of the garage. When you're at the store fill up the van's tank and both of the canisters. From the store, make sure you buy everything from the left wall. The Fan Belt(!!), multiple canisters of each fluids. Don't be scared to spend around 2000 marks. Get in the van by jumping into the seat (you should automatically crouch when entering the cab of any vehicle). Start the van by right clicking on the ignition (left side of steering wheel), then wait for the glow plug indicator to turn off before clicking and holding down to crank the engine. The same procedure applies to other diesel engines in the game. Headlights are to the left of the radio near the gearshift. Disengage the handbrake by holding right click, do it again if the parking brake indicator is still on. Make sure you tun off H-shifter at the main menu. X is clutch, G to shift up, B to shift down. Head Right down the dirt road from your house and keep taking right turns until you find the store, or take the shortcut through the lake. (Shortcut: https://youtu.be/YVn4QQ1g8ks -- This shortcut doesn't work in the van, or DEV has taken the access out.) To drink beer and eat food when looking at the beer/food press the action button (default F). You can also drink from the kitchen or bathroom tap by turning the tap on, then crouching next to it. There is a barn to the right down the road from your house. Inside is a chopping block and an axe which you can use to make money. Click the log stack to put a log on the chopping block. Click the axe, hit action button (default F), then right click to swing. There is also a tractor in the barn. You can use this to tow your car by driving the tractor near it, then left clicking a tow hitch. Left click again to disconnect. You can also use the forklift to pick up your car using PGUP and PGDOWN or (Front hydraulics lever from the right side of drivers seat). Don't lower it too far or it will glitch up the tractor. To save your game, go to the nearest toilet and select "Save & Quit" If you damage the body of your car, you can repair it by doing the following: * Navigate to C:\Users\Username\AppData\LocalLow\Amistech\My Summer Car. * Delete meshsave.txt from the folder. Your car bodywork will now be repaired with your work intact. This will not replace broken windows or parts that have come unscrewed as a result of damage, and food you have eaten prior to reloading will still be gone. Make meshsave.txt a read only file if you want damage to be repaired upon reloading. Building The Satsuma Almost Complete list of bolt sizes and quantities per part, for example: 6x9mm is 6 bolts/nuts with 9mm wrench Press F to open your toolbox and then 2 to select a spanner. Engine Crankshaft to Block (sometimes doesn't work) Main Bearings 6x9mm Pistons 8x7mm Head Gasket to Block Cylinder Head - 10x7mm G Spark Plug - 4 (scroll up with sparkplug wrench until tightened) Rocker Shaft - 5x8mm Camshaft - 2x5mm (Goes in a hole on left side of engine.) Camshaft Gear - 1x10mm Timing Chain Timing Cover - 6x6mm Water pump - 5x7mm Crankshaft Pulley - 1x11mm Waterpump Pulley - 4x7mm Distributor - 1x6mm Alternator - 1x7mm 1x10mm (once you put on the carburetor 4x8mm), 1x10mm, 1x Screwdriver (Put the Fan Belt on before you tighten the Alternator. Tighten the two bolts to secure the alternator, then adjust the belt tension by scrolling the mouse wheel while looking at the alternator to change the alternator position. Rotate it until the pulley is touching the belt, then tighten the screw. The correct tension appears to be about 1-2 clicks short of maximum tightness. Once the engine is installed and running, come back and properly adjust the alternator position with the engine running by loosening that screw again. Loosen the belt tension (scroll down on alternator) until the belt starts to squeal, then tighten it just enough it stops. If your fan belt is too tight it will eventually snap.) Fan Belt Engine Plate Starter - 2x7mm Carburetor - 4x8mm Headers - 5x8mm Flywheel - 6x7mm Clutch Disk to Clutch Cover Plate Clutch Pressure Plate to Clutch Disk Clutch Assembly - 6x6mm Oil Pan - 8x7mm, 1x13mm Gearbox - 6x7mm, 1x10mm Drive gear - 7x6mm Motor Hoist to Block - 2x10mm (Lower the hoist till it is near the Block. There will be an audio cue to let you know when the bolts are at the correct position.) Adjust Valves-screwdriver (see below for valve tuning guide) Rocker Cover - 6x7mm Fuel Pump - 2x7mm Air Filter - 2x6mm Oil filter - by hand Chassis You may want to jack the body up off the ground using the car jack. I would advise picking up the suspensions from the front if you can, as it tends to tip off as it gets weighed down by installing new components. Otherwise just be mindful as you go. Alternatively you could jack the car up and build the suspension and push the car into your garage, giving you access to the underside easily. Sub-frame - 4x10mm Steering Rack - 4x9mm Steering Column - 2x8mm Wishbones - 2x10mm each Spindles - 1x12mm each Steering Rods - 1x12mm each (Wait to tighten until Struts are installed.) Disc Brakes - 1x14mm each (14mm Bolt Shared with Half-shafts, install Half-shafts before you tighten.) Half-shafts - 3x9mm each (It doesn't matter if you tighten them before you install the engine), 1x14mm each (Bolt Shared with Disc Brake.) Struts - 4x9mm each, 3x10mm each, 1x12mm each (12mm Bolt Shared with Steering Rods.) Steering Rod Adjust - 1x14mm each (The adjustment has 120 clicks total travel stop-to-stop. Turn both of them out all the way to the stop and then bring them back the other way with exactly 60 clicks. This is dead straight-and-center.) Trailing Arms - 2x12mm each Coil Springs Shock absorbers - 1x12mm, 2x6mm each Drum Brakes - 1x14mm each Wheels - 4x13mm each(You may want to pick the chassis up with the forklift from the side now as it tends to slide around otherwise.) Mount the Engine Move the Motor Hoist to the Engine Bay, Lower it carefully and when it is in the correct position 3 bolts should appear at the Motor mounts for you to tighten with an 11mm spanner. (just in case you could only tighten 1 of the 3 bolts, take a 9mm spanner, tighten and once again untighten all half shaft bolts that touch the engine, then you can grab the 11mm spanner again and you should be able to tighten the other 2 bolts for the engine. After that tighten all the half shaft bolts again with 9mm spanner.) Halfshaft to Gearbox - 3x9mm each Hubcaps (Optional) Battery Electrics(to body) - 2x8mm (blue wires run to spark plugs) Fuel strainer - 1x8mm Radiator - 4x7mm Radiator Hoses Clutch Master Cylinder - 1x9mm, 2x8mm Brake Master Cylinder - 1x9mm, 2x8mm Clutch Line - 2x7mm Brake Line - 8x7mm (engine bay - 7 line nuts and 1 bolt), 4x7mm (one at each wheel - rear ones are on the trailing arm end of the line) Steering Wheel-1x10mm Fuel Tank - 7x11mm, 1x12mm (at fuel line) Gear Stick - 3x6mm Gear Linkage - 3x5mm Dash - 2x10mm RPM Gauge (or Clock if you prefer, attaches to Dashboard Meters) - 2x7mm Dashboard Meters - 2x6mm Radio Headlights - 2x7mm each Grille - 2x6mm Bumpers - 2x8mm each Rear Seats - 2x9mm Driver/Passenger Seat - 4x9mm each Hand Brake - 4x8mm, 1x5mm Exhaust Pipe - 3x7mm (This can be a pain, you will need to take the chassis off the forklift for this. Jack up one side of the car with the floor jack, attach the Exhaust Pipe near the handbrake. Two bolts at the header, one in the rear.) Exhaust Muffler - 1x7mm Doors - 4x10mm each Fenders - 5x5mm each Fuel Tank Pipe Boot Lid - 4x6mm Rear Lights Back Panel or Sub-woofer Panel Hood - 4x6mm Fill up the car's fluids by unscrewing the caps on the engine components, then holding the containers upside down over them until a green bar appears (the fluid containers don't have caps). The clutch cylinder uses brake fluid. The gas can, coolant, brake fluid and motor oil aren't infinite. Tighten the caps again when you are finished. You can also pee in your radiator if you want. NOTE: Buy at least 3 bottles of brake fluid as the two brake reservoirs require a full liter each, and the clutch reservoir 500ml. The remainder will be useful for topping up your fluids as they are slowly consumed over time. If you're not very familiar with the Satsuma it's best to get 4 or even 5 bottles as the brake lines will steadily leak fluid unless you tighten every single nut. Tuning Tuning your valve-train: Remove the rocker cover to access the valve adjustment screws. With the engine running and warmed up to ideal temperature, adjust each one with a screwdriver; mouse scroll up tightens, mouse scroll down loosens just like the nuts and bolts. If the valves are too loose or too tight, they will make a 'ticking' noise. The car performs best when the valves are as loose as possible without ticking. Be careful not to go too far in either direction or the engine can stall. If this does happen, immediately reverse whatever you just did before you forget which valve you were adjusting. Only then should you go back and attempt to continue the motor. The best way is to loosen each valve (mouse scroll down) until it starts ticking, then carefully re-tighten until the exact setting it stops again. Some valves are already in a too loose or too tight position, but will not start ticking until you fiddle with them. If a valve immediately starts ticking when you loosen it, keep loosening for another 5-7 wheel scrolls (or about a half turn on the screw head). If it stops ticking again the valve was in the 'too tight' position and you should proceed as normal (keep loosening until you hit the 'too loose' ticks and re-tighten) if it's still ticking after 5-7 scrolls you're in 'too loose' territory and should start tightening until the ticking stops. How to tune the carburetor: It doesn't matter if it's stock or not. Take the screwdriver from the toolbox, find the idle screw, and then "unscrew" (mouse scroll down) 10-20 times. Get inside the car, pull the choke all the way out (by holding left mouse button on it), turn on the ignition and start the motor. Hold your RPM to 3-5k by pushing throttle pedal. Once the temperature gauge has reached the halfway mark it is at running temperature; release the choke by holding down right mouse button on it. Get out and go back to your carburetor. You can manually pull the throttle linkage to rev the engine and tune it while it is running. Rev the engine a couple times and pay attention to the exhaust. Dark smoke means you are running too rich, popping and cracking combined with the engine temperature steadily rising means you are running far too lean. For now, being your first time tuning and this is still a stock car, we'll go for the richer end of the ideal mixture range. You can easily tell when you're in this range because the exhaust smoke turns a grayish white colour. Rich-en your mixture until the car blows dark exhaust smoke and then lean it out a bit, or if it is already dark, just keep leaning the mix until the exhaust colour changes. At this tune you should have plenty of low-end power to prevent stalling. If you still have issues you can hold the clutch and rev the engine gently before releasing the clutch for a bit more power; rev too hard though and the car will happily spin its wheels. This may or may not be a bad thing. If the RPM 'bogs' while taking off give the clutch a quick tap to let the RPM pick back up momentarily before the clutch re-engages. Again, this may result in a burnout but is preferable to stalling. By tuning your carburetor, you can enrich to improve your low RPM torque (less stalling, faster starts) or lean out to increase your high RPM power for better acceleration at top-end for things like the rally event, where you will constantly be down shifting for corners and generally always at high RPM. Be sure to re-apply your air filter on the stock carburetor if you have removed it for tuning. A note for the stock carburetor, if you have the Air-Fuel Ratio gauge installed, a good solid value is 14 at optimum temperature. This gives the car enough power in 1st to avoid stalling as often, but still reaches high top speed. Once you have installed performance parts and gotten used to taking off without stalling, you can lean the mixture to 14.7-15.1; this will give plenty of high end power and allow you to hit the rev limiter in top gear, as well as accelerate very quickly, provided you shift late to keep the RPM as high as possible. The downside is low end torque will be very lacking; your car will pretty much always stall from a standstill without some feathering of the clutch, and you will 'bog' and accelerate very slowly below 4k RPM, down shift to get your revs back into the power band. Common Issues / FAQ A few common problems people have and how to troubleshoot. The primary cause of problems is forgetting/missing bolts on components, but this guide should help you look in the right direction: * Car wont start & runs out of battery: Make sure your alternator is properly fitted. Ignition requires battery power to ignite; if your fan-belt or alternator is not connected properly you will not have a charged battery. Check those, make sure your alternator is pushed out from the engine by loosening the screw in the slotted section of the alternator bracket, and scroll the mouse wheel to rotate it to the appropriate position. See the alternator entry under engine assembly for more details on proper belt tension. * Engine makes a horrible squealing noise: '''You didn't tension the fan belt properly. See the alternator entry under engine assembly for proper belt tension. * '''Engine ticks while running: Your valves are badly adjusted. See the valve-train guide under tuning. * Clutch is stuck open: This could mean you haven't filled the Clutch master cylinder, make sure it's brimming with Dot4 Brake Fluid and try again. If it's leaking; check every nut on the clutch line, as well as the cylinder itself. Make sure your Handbrake is OFF! * Keeps popping out of gear while driving/is very difficult to get into gear: You have missed one of the bolts on the gear linkage, or one has come loose. * Brakes don't work: Make sure EVERY nut on the brake lines are done up; see the assembly section to make sure you got them all. You may have to bleed the brakes, unscrew the brake line nuts at every wheel by 2 notches and go push the brake pedal for a bit (try not to run out of brake fluid though). Be sure to tighten each nut back up and try the brakes again. * Part X wont fit part Y: There's plenty of YouTube videos out there to help you build your car and where to put items. Certain parts are very selective on how you apply them, including the angle of attachment. * Radiator starts steaming while driving: You've either left the choke pulled or your carburetor tune is too lean for the radiator to keep up. You should stop immediately because as the engine overheats, it leans out the fuel mixture and makes the problem worse; ignoring it will inevitably result in broken pistons. If your car has been running fine and this suddenly happens, you may have snapped your fan belt (alternator is too tight) and your water pump is no longer being driven. * Stalling in 1st gear: This is completely normal! Even if you use auto-clutch, when changing to 1st gear you are dumping the clutch in low RPM, this will stall a lot of cars irl. Wait until you car has warmed up at least to the first mark on the temp gauge, give it some gas in neutral and quickly put it in 1st to set off. You can lessen this affect by perfecting your carburetor tuning (a richer tune has more low RPM power, so less stalling), upgrading the cars power, or letting it warm up to higher temps before setting off. * Engine backfiring or "exploding": Tune that Carburetor! See the Tuning section above for that. It can cause permanent damage to your pistons if you don't alter the tune, which means a trip to the mechanic. If you are certain your carbs are tuned correctly and it is still backfiring, you could be leaning out from overheating, or your valve tune is off. * Radiator's fan not working: 'It's most likely because your fan belt served its life and is missing because it broke. Buy a new one at the store and replace it. * '''Car pulls to the side when driving: ' Your wheels are poorly aligned. The adjustment screw (14mm) is between the Steering Rod and Strut. Take both wheels to the end of their working travel (120 clicks maximum) and then align them by turning them 60 clicks in the correct direction. The Airfield is a great place to test changes, if however you are too lazy, you can travel to the repair shop and choose service called wheel alignment. * '''Dead battery: '''Save and load the game again to restore it. * '''Inspection failed due to fuel line: Tighten the 12mm bolt at fueltank. Have a different issue or a bug you've found? Try posting in Help and Support, the new forum or in the comment section below. ▼ ▼ ▼ Category:Guide